Lisbon’s Pastel de Nata: Custard Coup or Gentrification Tart?
Since revisiting the pastel de nata in 1837 at Pastéis de Belém, Lisbon’s egg tart has turned from humble convent sweet treat to global pastry TikTok star, invading Starbucks, Zara, and even souvenir socks. Starting in the early 2010s, chains like Nata Lisboa, Manteigaria, and Fábrica da Nata multiplied faster than tourists post-pandemic, leaving Largo São Domingos’ 1840 A Ginjinha cherry liqueur shop drowning in a sea of egg custard shops. Putin’s cake? Nope, today locals see pastéis as a capitalist trophy, thanks to investors frying rents higher than Castro Atelier’s precise 400°C ovens baking 24g tart masterpieces. Meanwhile, the city protests while tourists queue for a crispy, velvety bite of gentrified nostalgia.
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Lisbon’s pastel de nata shops multiplied like cockroaches — except these are golden, flaky, and suck the life out of historic neighborhoods one custard tart at a time. Forget heritage, the city’s main export now is Instagram lines and sky-high rents.
Who knew that the secret ingredient to Lisbon’s booming economy was turning every street corner into a custard tart shrine? Spoiler: it’s despair seasoned with a pinch of rent hikes and over-tourism.
Forget the 1837 original, Lisbon’s new motto is 'Bake fast, gentrify faster.' Soon hotels will serve only pastéis de nata and eviction notices, garnished with nostalgia and a side of angry protests.
Source: Eater | Published: 10/27/2025 | Author: Rafael Tonon
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